Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Ice Climb PA

Even though I just got back from NY after a great weekend of ice climbing with some old and new friends in the Catskills during IceFest, I want to talk a bit about the more 'local' ice. When I lived in Philly, we always went straight to the Cats or Daks for ice. After all, it was more reliably cold with thick ice, the conditions reports on NEIce.com were always more up-to-date, and the proximity to NYC meant there were lots of potential partners. My brother got me Griz's PA Guide to Ice climbs three Christmas's ago and I frequently check out the updates on the Central PA ice pages at HikeBikeClimb, but because the last two ice seasons got cut short because of injuries I never once made it out in PA.

I finally fixed this a few weeks ago. A friend who is relatively new to ice (he'd been out once before with a guide in NH) and to climbing in general headed up to the closest reliable ice: Lock Haven.

Roadside Gully: We put in an all-day, full-on mountaineering practice effort on Roadside Gully that was made much more difficult because we only had one set of ice tools. The ice was wet and thin in the middle of the easy stuff headed up to the ampitheater and required the leader to somehow pass the tools from a belay set up in a tangle of brush and mountain laurel, down a low angle gully, to another belay set up in a tangle of brush. We tried such esoteric techniques as Tyrolean Tool Transfers, but ended up fixing lines and ascending and descending on prussiks to transfer the tools. Good practice, but this makes for extremely slow going. The ampitheater itself is has three tiers. Only the first one - a broad low angle WI2 - was reasonably formed for hacks like ourselves. The others were thin clusters of curtains and long icicles that could have been strung together by someone with some talent and little need for protection, but not us. We took turns leading the first tier, then made five rope-stretching raps in the dark to get back to the road. I think we spent about 7 or 8 hours messing around on a 'roadside gully' and couldn't have been happier.

Tom even got his first ever lead over with (that's him seconding in the big photo, he's right about at the crux (I took this pic after we rapped after climbing it once and I took my turn leading it)). He had never led a single pitch of rock or ice before this and did a great job. He really had to work through some mental issues just before the crux and held it all together to pull the bulge even with a thin-ice top-out. A little bit of steeper ice, lots of multipitch practice, some rope tricks like prussiking fixed lines, a first ever lead... all in all it was a great refresher for the first climb of the winter season.

We hit Fox's Market House restaurant in Lock Haven for dinner that night. What we really needed was a bar, but we ended up here on the basis of a single review in Yelp. It was brightly lit, quiet, with a moderate selection of bottled beers and friendly service. Odd, mish-mash crowd of teenagers on dates, old couples (on dates?), kids and families, couples and two kinda loud guys by the pig statue that you can pet. We got great burgers though and beers at a good price from a crazy-happy waitress, so it was a good spot.

Spent the night sleeping out (which is like camping out except with no fires, no tents and a bit of whiskey) on the snow under the bright stars in Sproul State Forest.

Hidden Ampitheater: The next morning we woke up shortly after dawn, ran into town for some coffee and hit up Hidden Ampitheater. No low-angle ramp approach here, just a jumble of talus. The ampitheater itself is three-tiered like Roadside but here the first two pitches were thin icicles and still forming curtains. Definitely climb-able for some folks, but there was no way either of use were gonna lead that unprotectable horror show. I would've like to give them a go on toprope but would have done more damage than it was worth on pitches that fragile. The third pitch is the longest and it was well formed so we angled our way left and up around to the top of the third pitch where a few giant trees gave us bomber toprope anchors. This approach is not risk-free but it's fine if you're comfortable front-pointing up frozen turf (with one tool each). We took turns lapping that pitch for some good vertical ice practice. I even managed to try a few strenuous lie-backs and Tom got a little bloody from some falling ice, so, again we were happy as pigs in shit. Rapped off shortly after noon and beat it back to State College in about an hour (including a quick stop at Sheetz where you can top off your frozen nalgene with hot water). Damn fine weekend.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Garage Gym: New Editions

One thing that's nice about a garage gym is that it is always open. Well, not always. Over Christmas and New Years my gym was closed for construction and upgrades including brackets to convert my pull-up bar into a squat and shoulder rack, a 16 foot "plice" wall to practice ice climbing, and some shelves to get more shit out of the way.


Pull-Up Bar to Squat Rack Conversion: Ever since I built the pull-up bar I intended to have brackets made so that I could use it as a squat rack and shoulder rack, too. The design is pretty simple but avoids some potential issues I've seen with others. The weld shop screwed up at first, so these aren't exactly the way I wanted them, but I'll see how they do for awhile and maybe upgrade later if I need to. The high points: 1) there are no inside corners to concentrate stress or provide initiation points for cracks, and 2) made out of 3/8" steel and they bolt to the rack with 3/8" bolts, so they're plenty strong for anything I'll be lifting (or dropping). The toughest part is actually drilling exactly through the center of -- and perpindicular to -- a round pipe. I didn't manage that particularly well, but all-in-all it worked out. About $50 including primer, paint, hardware, drill bit etc.



Plice: I had the ice-jones bad all December. Typically, I take a long weekend climbing trip over New Year's but things didn't work out this year so I used the holidays to finally build the plywood ice ('plice') climbing wall to get my fix. It's pretty straightforward. The most expensive part is the pressure treated plywood. I only took a few laps before my first climbs of the season, but I felt like it helped get me in the groove a bit quicker than usual. Plus, I always need help on my 'hips in, heels low'. This helps me get some mileage and muscle memory. A few tips if you ever want to build your own: buy the straightest 16 foot pcs of 2 x 4 (this is not as easy as it sounds), space the 1x's so that your ice tools grips will rest on the next lower 1x (or at least so the grips don't end up on an edge), and get some help when it's time to raise the damn thing (heavier and more awkward than you expect). I wish I had a big tree to prop it up against, but I don't, so I attached it to the playset I built my daughter this summer. This makes it the first section of the real bouldering wall, with more to come later this year.

Shelves: Among other things, these will give me a place to put my boom box. This should not be underestimated. Seperating my music from the interval timer on my iPhone is a definite upgrade.

Friday, January 7, 2011

Crossfitter's guide to State College: Gyms (addendum 1)

Now that I finally put together my CrossFitter's Guide to State College; I need to correct it. We DO have an affiliate as of JAN 2011: CrossFit Nittany. It's being run by a State High grad who's been CrossFitting for a number of years out in Arizona and California. It's currently associated with the Downtown Athletic Clubs II (which is funny because I ranked that place as 6th worst of the 7 gyms in the area) for now, but I personally would expect that they won't be there too long unless the gym itself changes significantly (which is possible and much needed). It's been my experience that the business model and motivations of the typical gym and gym goer simply don't gel very well with the desires of the CrossFit trainers or the needs of their athletes.

But anyway, Good Luck CrossFit Nittany! I hope it will bring together a community of like-minded athletes right here in Happy Valley.

As an aside, Bryan has the good sense to link to Dave Seasholtz's "Central Pennsylvania Outdoor Sports" page right away. A great resource for all of us here that like to get out in the outdoors and play. I've been checking in there alot lately as I'm headed out to explore some PA ice for the first time this weekend.

SOUNDTRACK: For me, NOFX and iceclimbing are linked. It's probably because NOFX is where a regular ice partner and I first found some common musical ground between techno and punk (I admit I was a little worried when he threw his gear in the truck at a NJ Turnpike rest stop for a planned weekend-long trip up to the Cats and mentioned he mainly listened to techno and used to DJ alot). So you probably think the playlist is a NOFX song, but it's not. Because when I was packing up tonight I was shuffling through the ipod and a great Butt Trumpet song came on and it's been stuck in my head every since. And the reason I bring it up at all is because if you google "NOFX Butt Trumpet" (don't ask WHY anyone would do this) the fourth link or so after the lyrics and a sales offers is a Climbing Magazine story which confirms my thesis that both NOFX AND Butt Trumpet go really well with climbing.

Butt Trumpet's "I've Been so Mad Lately" off the LP Primitive Enema. Umm.... this song is not exactly rated "G".